Dave's Free HDR Video Tutorial

I just recorded a new & free HDR ( High Dynamic Range ) Video Tutorial for 2013, it contains step by step voice instruction as requested by many of you on the last version. The video contains my post processing technique from start to finish on a picture I took last summer in Iceland. I chose to use a picture that was not overly technical, but complicated enough to show a few different processing skills and techniques. The best way to learn using this video is watch a small part, see what I am using/doing, then try it for yourself. If you would like to process along with me I provide the RAW files I work with for digital download at a price of 4.99$ via PayPal & major credit card. Just email me if you want them. The video part of the tutorial is free and can be found at the bottom of this page. 

It may also help you to watch my Free Post Processing Digital Workflow Tutorial where I'll teach you how to load your RAW files into Lightroom.

I use tons of software when I process photos & two of my favorites are Topaz Labs or HDR Soft the Makers of Photomatix. If you would like a discount when purchasing either of these packages just use the coupon code DAVEMORROWPHOTO when checking out to receive 15% off:) You can use Tony Kuyper's Free Luminosity Mask Tutorial to perform your own HDR Blending. I bought his actions too which are well worth the price!

All my other tutorials including the Luminosity Masking Video Tutorial can be found at: www.DaveMorrowPhotography.com/learnphotography.

Here is a short overview of the work flow going on in the video. 

In the Field

I normally shoot anywhere from three to nine bracketed images, starting at a low EV(exposure value) and working my way up. For example nine bracketed shots would start at -4 EV and end at +4 EV capturing all the stops in between. The key is to capture the entire range of light over all the shots. The dark exposures will correctly expose the bright areas of the composition, while the light exposures will cover the dark areas of the composition. For Photomatix to nicely process these exposures it is necessary to ensure that you have no areas of data loss. By data loss I mean completely black or completely white areas. If you want the picture to have dark and light areas, I would suggest adding them yourself in photoshop. 

On the Computer:

Lightroom 4:
Adjust RAW files to nicely expose different parts of each of my pictures. 
Sharpen the picture.
Export to JPEG.

Moving the sliders around as seen in my video I try to get 60-80% of the picture to look "GOOD". The rest I take care of in Photoshop, so plan accordingly. 

Photoshop CS6:
Blend Photomatix picture with how every many other exposures I used to process it.
Topaz Adjust for sharpness and saturation.
Nik Color Efex adjustment.
High Pass Filter or Nik Sharpener to selectively sharpen.

After I feel that the picture is done, I know there will be a few other things that I would like to change later on so I save it in a folder and let it sit for 3 days. This allows me to step away from the picture and correct any small mistakes later.  Ater this time has ended I put the finishing touches on the picture and save it to iPhoto. Want some more info on the reasoning behind this? Check out this amazing post on artistic workflow by Klauss Herrmann called, Why You Need an Artistic Workflow. It helped me a lot in knowing when it's finally time to show my picture to the world. 

Here are a few more tips to keep in mind when learning the Photoshop or post processing technique.

1) It's not easy learn and may take you a ton of time to start getting results that you like, so keep working hard and don't give up. I have processed a lot of pictures over the past year and there are still days when I work on a picture for 2 hours, then throw it in the trash. 

2) If you don't feel like processing pictures or are feeling uninspired, get away from your computer, it should never be a chore:)

3) Play around with all of the different functions in all of your photo editing programs and become familiar with what they can do. It's like a bag of tricks, you may not always use them, but you never know when something might pop up and become useful. 

Leave your questions or comments below the post. Enjoy!

If you want to watch the video in 720P click the small "gear" on the bottom of the screen to adjust resolution.

Here is the first version of my Free HDR Tutorial, I figured there was no reason to take it down since it still contains some very valuable info. The JPEG files for this one are free. Enjoy!
Click Here to Get the JPEGS |

Here is the final product....
The Gorgeread more at www.DaveMorrowPhotography.com

Feel like you learned some valuable information? Donations of any size are always awesome!


csafotography said...

Great Work Dave!!!

Dave Morrow said...

Thanks, hopefully people get some good info from it:)

David Morrow said...

Thanks, hopefully people get some good info from it:)

Jacob Bownds said...

Thanks for the detailed info! Just wanted to let you know that the link to the Color Theory 101 toward the top of the page is an invalid link. I figured out why. There is a 'v' before the http at the beginning of the url. Delete the v and it does take you to the correct page.

David Morrow said...

No problem @twitter-34853525:disqus , thanks for the heads up too:) Got it fixed

Valeria/Svana Sig said...

cant wait to watch this when i get home from work :)

David Morrow said...

@047849cca7cec5307f8bce9fa630e81e:disqus good to hear, hope you learned a few things:)

Ian Wilkinson said...

Thanks for putting these two videos together - I've learned a lot from them, although the first version was a bit confusing without a spoken commentary. I was having to translate all your keyboard shortcut from Mac to PC, which made it hard to follow. By the way, you need to clean your camera's sensor! I'm sure the same dust spots are visible on the sample images from each video. ;)

David Morrow said...

Sure no problem, the first video is just a recording of me post processing, it most likely is hard to follow, the new video should work much better. I am not very picky about cleaning my sensor due to the fact those spots are so easy to remove in Photoshop. Once a year I take in it, if you look at my final images you won't find the "dirt".

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